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A new world for Helen Anthony

Blending classic and contemporary design, Helen Anthony brings the 'A New World' Collection to the frontline for Autumn/Winter 2016-17. Drawing on an arsenal of influences; from British solidarity and the social cohesiveness of the 1940s to the style during this dramatically diverse decade, Helen Anthony amalgamates the military-infused structure of the early Forties with the debonair nuances introduced from across the Atlantic in the postwar era. The collection is tailored and cut to reflect the traditional gentleman's suit of the decade, yet boasts some extravagances of the later years which are often taken for granted. Male civilians adopted classic-cut high-waisted trousers to accentuate their physiques.


Boxy pleats are added to the backs of long coats to add volume and shape, naturally cinching the waist and broadening the chest, finished with patch flap pockets. Peak-lapelled double-breasted suits act as a sartorial blockade, supported by the dotted dinner jacket, tail tuxedo, pinstripe and checked suits. These pieces evoke the powerful, yet battered man of the epoch. The end of the Second Great War brought not turmoil and conflict but a desire for world peace, unity and reconciliation. A reflection of this newfound ethos emerges in the collection's hero piece; a leather jacket. Ubiquitous with rebellion and emblazoned with the bloody words 'Peace' in red, it is reinforced by the cavalry of a leather and wool briefcase and hand knitwear using 100% pure British & Italian wool, which together, act as visual messengers of peace. Note that all the leather jackets in this collection are a luxurious blend of hair on cow skin, long hair on goat skin, cow skin and cow suede skin. A dusty buffalo skin leather bag conceptually formed into London's very own Tower Bridge represents the veil of dust that covered the war-torn cobblestone of the city, but signifies just how united the people were.


Helen Anthony challenges modern interpretations of the weary 1940's aesthetic and the need for raw functionality with innovative urban camouflage. Juxtaposing the muted military tone, sharp styling awakens with lively, abstract animal prints. A red jacket is covered by a flock of the Satyr tragopans' robust silhouettes. The jewel tones of the Californian Red-Sided Garter, Eastern Red Coral Ribbon and Chrysolelea Ornata snake breeds are mimicked through slithers of vivid reds and blues across wool single-breasted and double-breasted suits. All printed in Italy on Italian wool - with no longer a worry of the rationing on cut, cost or quality, only the finest materials are used. This collection is the result of a close collaboration with premium British fabric purveyor, Huddersfield Fine Worsteds of Yorkshire, UK, whose beautifully-crafted luxury English and Italian wool, cashmere and silks combined with the exclusive creativity of Helen Anthony, creates uncompromising finishes for the traditional dapper gentleman's collection. Red, white, black, blue, brown, mustard and green join together to form a colour palette that is global, that we all share. We live in a world where we are free to wear what we want and be who we choose to be.
Paola Luchetti, Gennaio 2016